If you read my PODER story on master tailor Christian García, either in print on online, you might think, yeah, nice clothes, but not what I can afford. Indeed, as I pointed out, these unsurpassed bespoke (a word that means truly custom-made by master tailors) cost no more than many of the top Italian brands of suits that, though certainly of high quality, are basically factory made. And some, as the story observed, are not even the best workmanship.
So what can a man who wants to dress well do, if money is, as it is for most of us, indeed an object? It can be done.
First, unless you have money to burn in the latest groove, try to avoid fads. Buy clothes that are stylish but not exaggerated. For some time, the fashion industry has been trying to get men to shop like women, convincing us that “last year’s model” is no good any more. That’s only true if last year’s model was faddish. Otherwise, a good suit should last quite a few years, and most men can’t tell what was in last year from this one, so you’ll look just fine.
Go to stores and try on different brands, looking for the one that flatters you. And that you feel comfortable in. Guys who grew up dressing preppy may feel odd in Italian clothes. And those who like the European look will find Brooks Brothers boring and dowdy.
Once you find a brand that you think makes you look terrific, comb the retail outlets. Again, you will find last year’s models, but, be honest, can you really tell one year from the next? Unless you’re a slave to fashion, the price drop will make it worthwhile.
Men’s stores are an endangered species. But if you know one you trust and, most of all, trust the staff, it’s worth putting yourself in their hands. No outlet discounts, but, wait, all stores have sales at the end of a season. And if you are a regular, they will keep you appraised on when the inventory goes on sale.
I’ve made this mistake, so I speak from experience. You go to a store, try on a suit jacket. Look in the mirror. It looks great. Or so you think. Clothing stores have these fitting mirrors you step into and there is one in the front and one on each side. Position yourself so that, without twisting your body which will distort the clothes’ lines, you can see how you look on the sides and, most importantly, in the back. Unslightly bulging or pulling needs to be avoided, so keep looking for something that fits well all around.
A good store will have tailors to make alterations to smooth out the lines and improve the fit. Talk with these chaps. These guys are your best friends for their job is to make you look good. And if you show you care about their craft they will give you their best shot. If you have questions, ask them. Everyone loves to let others know what they know. If you are shopping at an outlet, where there are no tailors, try to find a good independent one. Ask around. Usually, the ladies who work at dry cleaners may not be experienced enough with men’s clothes, but there are always exceptions. When you go to a tailor shop for alterations check out the clientele. If they are well-dressed, are bringing in quality goods, and look like they care about their clothes, you’re in good hands.
If you have a male friend or relative whose tastes you trust, go shopping with him so you can get an outside opinion, other than the salesperson who’s eager to make you buy. I know this will sound sexist and possibly it is, but a man is usually best suited to advice another man on style. A female friend who is a high-end fashion professional once bought a pair of loafers for her beau, who rejected them saying they looked like ballet slippers. I saw the shoes in question and, in spite of the lady’s impressive fashion credentials, I had to agree wit the guy.
Dismiss the notion of “dress up.” it’s either dress well or badly. Don’t make the common mistake the only time you have to look good is when you’re wearing a suit, and the rest of the time you can look like you’re homeless. Bermudas and a t-shirt don’t have to look disgusting. Bermudas are basically short pants and they should fit well. And a period rock concert t-shirt can be cool, but not a tacky one that’s three sizes too big or too small. As for those polo shirts with a corporate logo, wear them to company events by all means, but otherwise, don’t. Take my word for it.
Buy as good shoes as you can possibly afford. And take care of them — invest in wood shoe trees to keep them in shape. I was on jury duty once and the poor sap who lost the case — he was undoubtedly guilty but that’s not my point — had lawyers wearing suits and ties but scuffed shoes. One look at them and anyone would conclude they were losers — they were, in fact, and had to be corrected by the judge on points of law they were ignorant about.
At the other end of your body, get a good haircut, trim your facial hair if you wear such, and, please, after a certain age, unsightly hair can grow out of nose and ears. There are inexpensive battery operated gadgets that trim that in seconds. Otherwise, you are going to gross everybody out.
Most of all, pay attention to your appearance. There are men who look like a million dollars in clothes they buy in thrift shops. They simply know what’s good and what’s not and what looks good on them. Fit is important, but so is color. Pale-skinned men and olive-skinned men and black-skinned men don’t look good in the same colors. Take a lesson from Giorgio Armani himself, who wears nothing but navy blue because he knows it’s what looks best against his gray hair and tanned skin. In fact, a good rule-of-thumb is to forego “downtown black.” A pin-striped suit of the darkest blue imaginable gives the impression of being a black suit, but better. And that’s the point of dressing, either casual or formal. You just want to look better.